The deep water angle of incidence is often denoted \alpha_0. See: Shallow-water wave theory, Wave transformation. When waves enter shallow water, the wave propagation direction tends to become perpendicular to the depth contours, by refraction. The angle between the wave propagation direction and the normal to the coastline or the angle between the wave front and the coastline (often denoted by the symbol \alpha or \theta). See: Active coastal zone.ĭeposit rock material formed when streams run off mountains to plains below. In the case of a dune coast the front dune is part of the active coastal zone. It extends from the closure depth up to a fixed land boundary (rock, cliff, seawall, sea dike). The active coastal zone (also called active coastal profile) is the cross-shore coastal zone that is highly dynamic, with up and down redistribution of sand by the action of tides, waves and wind. Growth (vertical and/or horizontal) of morphological structures ( beach, bar, dune, sand bank, tidal flat, salt marsh, tidal channel, etc.) by sedimentation. The erosive action that occurs when rock particles of varying sizes are dragged over or hurled against a surface. Definition of coastal sub-zones, adapted from the Shore Protection Manual, 1984 Abrasion
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